And as a result, we now have at least 15 shoes you can buy right away to level up your summer outfits.

Enjoy reading — and happy shopping!

General orientation

Before we get into the actual recommendations, I want to quickly explain what I personally look for in a proper summer shoe:

• Lightweight
  A summer shoe should never feel heavy or bulky. We want something that feels easy on the foot — more along the lines of an espadrille, a boat shoe, or a lightweight canvas sneaker. Effortless. Very summer.

• Easy on, easy off
  That quick slip-on, slip-off feeling is part of what makes a shoe feel summery in the first place.

• Comfort matters when laces are involved
  If we’re talking sneakers or lace-up shoes, they better be genuinely comfortable and easy to wear.

• Versatility
  My ideal summer shoe shouldn’t just work for beach vacations or quick coffee runs. In theory, it should also work for more elevated occasions. If I can wear it to a summer wedding with the right outfit, that’s usually a very good sign.

• No visual heaviness
  Thick soles and bulky silhouettes often ruin the lightness of a summer outfit.

That’s exactly why I tend to gravitate toward things like espadrilles, boat shoes, yacht loafers, lightweight canvas sneakers like Converse or Vans, and certain retro sneakers as well — as long as they don’t feel overly sporty or heavy.

Let’s get into it!

1. Deck Shoes Morjas

—> find them here.

One of the most important shoes this summer will be the classic deck shoe.

Originally, it was designed for moving around on the deck of a boat — hence the name. You’re essentially getting a lightweight canvas upper combined with a rubber sole.

From a material standpoint, it works incredibly well with lighter summer fabrics and also feels like a very refreshing alternative to the classic white minimalist leather sneaker that most of us have probably worn to death by now.

That soft cream color also makes these especially versatile. It feels very summery because it doesn’t create harsh or overly dark contrasts within an outfit.

2. Castaner Espadrille Loafer

—> find them here.

As I’ve mentioned many times before, an espadrille loafer is an absolute summer essential for me.

Honestly, there’s barely any shoe I wear more during summer. You can slip into them in two seconds, they’re incredibly comfortable, and they somehow work just as well with a suit as they do with swim shorts — which is exactly why I love them.

And if this version from Castañer isn’t your thing, definitely check out Massimo Dutti as well. Very solid option — that’s actually where I bought mine.

3. Moc Toe Sneaker (Ludwig Reiter)

—> find them here.

I can completely understand if this one feels a little unusual at first.

That said, it’s a really nice — and very comfortable — alternative for days when you don’t want to wear loafers but still want to look somewhat polished.

Normally, I’m not a huge fan of these hybrid-style shoes because they often try to do too much and end up looking confused. But this one gets a pass from me, mainly because the moc-toe design makes it feel much more intentional.

4. Sebago Suede Boat Shoes

—> find them here
—> alternatively here

Read more

Happy shopping!

1. Seersucker Shirts

—> find it here.

Seersucker Shirts are amongst the absolute BEST items you can wear for summer! They’re airy, the fabric brings quite a unique look into your outfit and they’re highly comfortable as well. Every man needs a good seersucker shirt in my opinion.

2. Seersucker Swim Shorts

—> find it here.

Very cool swim trunks! Seersucker isn’t just a great option for shirts, it works incredibly well for swimwear too. It’s extremely comfortable to wear and this color combination makes it very easy to style as well. But one thing has to be said: you do need a certain tan for this to really look its best.

3. Anton Meyer Rugby Polo

—> find it here.

Lately, I’ve mentioned quite a few times that I’m a fan of rugby shirts. The problem is that it’s surprisingly hard to find one that feels a bit more toned down. I understand that bold stripes aren’t for everyone, especially when they come in combinations like green and red. That’s why this one in blue and white feels like the perfect middle ground. Very timeless, a nice nautical feel because of the colors, and incredibly easy to throw on with jeans and a T-shirt. In my opinion, it’s the perfect piece for those days when it’s too cold for just a T-shirt, but still too warm for a jacket.

4. Colorful Crewnecks 1

—> find it here.

I think it’s important to have the right sweaters for summer as well. Because when temperatures drop a bit, it just looks odd if you throw a dark knit over an otherwise very summery outfit (colors, silhouettes, etc.) that clearly feels more appropriate for the colder months. Cotton crewnecks are a great option here because they have a slight collegiate feel to them and bring a nice preppy touch to summer outfits.

Read more

If you have ever ended up in a circle of denim fans when the topic of jeans came up, you know the problem. Words like RAW, Selvedge and Sanforized get thrown around, and you nod along politely because you do not feel like outing yourself as a beginner at that moment. Honestly, you do not need to know all of these terms down to the last detail. But a basic understanding is worthwhile. And above all the question of what actually happens in the first months with a pair of raw denim jeans. Because that is the real appeal of these trousers.

Today I am putting everything into one piece: terms, a short bit of history, the role Japan plays in all of this, the break-in, care, and at the end concrete brand recommendations for getting started. No doctorate in textile engineering required.

Let’s go!

The two terms that constantly get mixed up

Before we get going, we need to cleanly separate two words. Because this is the most common mistake I see: RAW and Selvedge are treated as the same thing. They are not. They are two completely independent properties.

RAW Denim: a state

Raw denim (sometimes also called “dry denim”) simply means that the fabric was not washed after weaving. Not by the manufacturer, not in the shop, not by anyone. What you are holding in your hand is denim straight from the loom. Stiff, dark, full of starch, almost like cardboard.

Sounds uncomfortable at first. And in the first few days it is. But that is exactly the appeal. 99 % of all jeans in regular retail are pre-treated: washed, softened with enzymes or stones, sometimes artificially lightened. They are “finished” when you buy them. With raw denim it is different. The jeans only develop through you.

Every crease, every light streak, every sign of wear is created exclusively by what you do with the trousers. Movement, everyday life, habits. Someone who drives a car all day gets different creases than someone who commutes to work by bike. It is essentially a fingerprint in the fabric.

Simon Compton from Permanent Style shows you wonderfully and simply here that a broken-in raw denim pair makes the outfit more interesting and adds depth, while the outfit itself is kept very plain.

What stands out:

• Jeans with a straight leg

• Jeans cuffed (tip: buy one size longer)

• Sport coat with texture

• Button-down with a larger collar

• No belt needed, but it would be a nice option here

Jeans (click)

Sport coat (click)

Shirt (click)

Derby shoes (click), 15% code: JUSHAN15

Belt (click), 15% code: JUSHAN15

Selvedge Denim: a weaving method

Read more

Today’s piece opens up the topic of jeans completely for you — and at the same time closes it again. We’re deliberately splitting this into Part 1 and Part 2 so we can go through everything properly without leaving anything out. We’ll cover which jeans you actually need, how they should fit, what to look for when buying, and why they sometimes don’t look as good as they could. By the end, you’ll have a clear guide that lets you tick this topic off once and for all.

Enjoy!

Fit, colors, combinations. Everything you need to know about jeans.

Which piece of clothing does the most work in your wardrobe? I’d bet for most of you, it’s jeans. They work with a T-shirt just as well as with a blazer, with sneakers but also with loafers, at the office and with the kids.

And yet most men buy their jeans on the principle of: walk into the store, grab a size, it’ll do. You only really notice how much potential is being left on the table when you wear a pair of jeans that actually fits for the first time. Then, honestly, you start wondering why you didn’t do this much earlier.

That’s exactly what today is about. No denim nerdery, no technical jargon. Just what you need to know so that from now on your jeans fit better and are combined better.

Briefly explained: What actually is denim?

Before we talk about fit and styling, just a quick bit of background.

Denim is a cotton fabric made in a twill weave. What makes it special: the vertical threads (warp threads) are dyed with indigo (whether natural or synthetic), while the horizontal threads (weft threads) stay undyed. That’s exactly why your jeans are dark blue on the outside and light on the inside. And it’s also why jeans fade so characteristically: the dyed threads lose their color over time and the white ones start showing through. That’s how every pair of jeans develops its own patina.

This is true for every pair of jeans, whether €30 or €300. The difference lies in the fabric, the construction, and whether the jeans have been pre-treated. But that’s a topic for its own newsletter. Today we’re keeping it practical.

Stretch or no stretch?

Short but important point. The vast majority of jeans in stores today contain some elastane. That makes them more comfortable, sure. But it has downsides too. Stretch jeans lose their shape faster, especially at the knees and waistband. And the texture often looks smoother and more plasticky than with pure cotton.

My clear recommendation: 100% cotton. Yes, it feels a bit stiffer at first. But after a few days it molds to your body shape and then fits better than any stretch jean ever could. The texture is higher quality, the fading more beautiful, and the pants last longer.

If you don’t want to give up comfort entirely, make sure the elastane content stays at a maximum of 2%. Anything above that will become a problem over time.

Honestly: a pair of jeans that’s sagging at the knees and hips after two years because they’ve got 2% elastane is no fun for anyone. That’s one of those things you later regret taking the easy way out on. But I do understand the desire for comfort. It’s just important to me to put a 100% cotton jean on your radar at least once.

The four jeans colors you should know

In my opinion, there are four jeans colors that are truly relevant for a stylish wardrobe.

Read more

What’s great about today’s additions is this: none of them will feel unfamiliar. In fact, most of you will already have the majority of these items sitting in your closet, since they’re all part of a solid foundational wardrobe.

Just to put that into perspective — this means you could get dressed differently every single day for over a month, look well put together, and never have to think twice about what to wear.

At the end of this post, you’ll also get a PDF with all outfit combinations that you can download and revisit anytime.

Enjoy!

1. Denim Jacket

—> find it here

Even though you’ve probably heard me say this quite a few times, I genuinely mean it every single time I say it:

EVERY man needs this piece in his wardrobe. And that absolutely applies to a denim jacket.

As I already mentioned in one of my recent YouTube videos, it fits perfectly into our wardrobe and is one of those pieces that won’t change in shape, color, function within an outfit, or overall design anytime in the next decades. So once you buy it, you’ll be wearing it for life.

This one from Ralph Lauren stands out to me especially because of the wash. It’s not too light, not too dark — just right. Which means, if you like the look, you can easily pair it with very light denim. But it works just as well with a darker raw denim too.

2. Suit Pants Navy

—> find it here (all sorts of sizes and fits)

Hopefully, many of you already own a pair of navy dress trousers — which is even better. And if you don’t: it’s absolutely worth it. There’s no pair of trousers I wear more often than these.

That’s mainly because I don’t just wear them with a blazer — actually, that’s more the exception. I especially like them in a simple setup with a T-shirt, paired with loafers or even sneakers. A steel watch on the wrist and the look is done. You can style them in a very minimal and clean way, but they also work just as well in a more elevated outfit with a blazer and a shirt.

They also pair incredibly well with the denim jacket shown above.

Here’s an example:

Read more

The whole setup is intentionally designed so everything works with everything. You don’t have to question whether pieces go together — they just do. And to show you how much potential is really in there, in part 2 we’ll expand this to 15 pieces and turn it into 40 outfits.

At the end of this post, you’ll also find a PDF with all outfits and pieces, so you can always come back to it — whether you’re planning or already shopping.

Enjoy reading and happy shopping!

1. Workwear Jacket Olive

—> find it here

Our first piece is an olive workwear jacket. I especially like this shade of olive because it goes with pretty much everything. Black works perfectly — even black accessories, black shoes for example. Denim works great, but so do beige and brown tones. There’s really nothing you can’t combine it with. And that’s exactly why it’s such a strong foundation piece: if you buy these items and start building beyond this capsule wardrobe, you’re in a very, very good place.

What I like about the workwear aspect is that it adds a certain sportiness to our looks. Throw on a pair of sneakers with it, and it instantly feels more relaxed, more casual, more cool. You could even wear a blue and white striped tee underneath. But at the same time, the jacket also shines when you dress it up properly — with a shirt and loafers. So stylistically, it’s incredibly flexible.

Another thing I love: the pockets. You actually have options to carry things, to use them. And that’s the beauty of workwear jackets — they almost look better when they’ve been worn in, when the pockets are slightly filled out, when there’s actually something in them. Because then the jacket is doing what it was made for.

So overall, it’s a light, easy layer that makes your outfit more interesting, adds a bit of sportiness — all things that are extremely valuable for the kind of wardrobe we’re trying to build here.

And another big advantage: you can find olive workwear jackets from plenty of brands by now, so you’re not tied to one specific piece.

Read more

Building on today’s YouTube video “Spring Jackets”, I’m giving you three of them here, each with three simple outfit combinations you can copy right away.

Enjoy the shopping and styling!

Just for you: 15% off at Sir of Sweden. Code: justus15

In just a few weeks, the Sir of Sweden x Frederic’s collaboration will be launching. To get you in the mood—and as a thank you—Sir of Sweden has set up a discount code exclusively for my community, valid until the campaign officially starts.
I’d highly recommend taking a look at their linen suits and blazers. You’ll find the perfect pieces for your summer events.
CODE: justus15

Introduction

As I was going through my recent Style Academy posts and thinking about what topic to cover next, one thing stood out: lately, I’ve been explaining a lot in each post.
So naturally, I started asking myself: “Do you even want that?!” and “I didn’t always write this much… what were the topics like in previous years?”
So I dug a bit deeper—and realized it had been quite a while since I last put together outfits you can simply copy.

And honestly, I can’t expect everyone to always take 15–20 minutes to work through my posts.
I feel the same way—whenever I read something from Bulltied Bull, my first thought is usually “oh man, this is going to be a long one.” Even if I’m interested in the topic, that alone can already feel like a hurdle.

So today, I’m intentionally keeping things a bit shorter for a change. I’ll give you my favorite jackets with a quick explanation—and let the images do the rest.
And to show you where the inspiration comes from, I’ll include Pinterest references whenever possible. It’s honestly one of the easiest ways to get inspired and recreate these looks yourself.

Let me know in the comments if you like this format—or how you’d prefer future posts to be :-)

1. Linen Flight Jacket

—> find it here.

This spring/summer, I’ve really fallen for flight jackets! I love the design and that subtle elegance they bring with them. Especially with jackets like these, it even looks great when you pop the collar in the back.

—> T-Shirt
—>Shirt Alt. 1
—>Shirt Alt. 2
—> Jeans (Perfect color and fit!)
—> Belt
—> Shoes

This summer, I’ve completely fallen for “pale yellow”—that soft pastel tone! I love how well it works with light denim, but also with different shades of brown. If we ever talk about must-haves for a season, then this is the color this year.
Unfortunately, this exact shirt is no longer available, and in general, it’s actually quite hard to find good light yellow tones—sadly!

Read more

Enjoy reading and happy shopping!

A few words before we get started…

Have you ever noticed that polos ALWAYS have their own category in online stores?! I find that pretty interesting, considering they’re technically just a subcategory of knitwear—yet they still get their own spotlight.
So I asked myself: why is that?

In my opinion, it comes down to how popular polos are. And they’re popular because, for a lot of people, they feel like the perfect middle ground between dressed-up and casual. When a T-shirt feels too relaxed, the next step—before committing to a proper dress shirt—is usually a polo. It’s more refined than a T-shirt, but still more relaxed than a classic shirt.

At least that’s how it’s commonly perceived. The problem is—like with everything else—you can’t judge how “elegant” something is based on the category alone. Fabric, cut, and color already make a huge difference within the garment itself. And then, of course, there’s how you actually style it.
You can easily look more put-together in a well-styled T-shirt than in a poorly styled polo.

So don’t get distracted by the supposed elegance of polos. Today, we’re taking a proper look at which ones actually work—and why.

Please NO piqué fabric

One thing I need to say upfront: don’t go for polos made from piqué.

Quick explanation of what piqué actually is:
Piqué is a fabric with a slightly raised, waffle-like texture—that typical surface with small patterns you know from classic polos.

This texture is also what makes the fabric highly breathable and great at wicking away moisture—which is why it was originally used mainly for sports.

And honestly, that’s exactly where piqué belongs: in sports. If you’re playing tennis, actually playing polo, or doing anything active, it makes total sense. The fabric is airy, durable, and built for movement.

But in a style context, piqué kills exactly what we actually want from a polo: elegance.

The fabric has a very specific feel, looks quite technical, and quickly leans a bit sporty—or even outdated. All things that make the polo less elegant than we need it to be if we want to integrate it properly into our outfits.

What we’re really after is a polo that feels smooth, fluid, and therefore more refined. Something you can ideally even pair with a blazer without creating a harsh visual contrast between materials.
And that’s exactly where piqué falls out of the equation :-D
I just don’t see a scenario where a classic piqué polo truly works in a more elevated outfit.

What we want is a polo that is inherently elegant. And if it ever feels too dressed up, we can always dress it down by pairing it with more casual pieces.

So the materials we’re looking for are: merino wool, cotton-linen, cotton-silk, and fine knits.
Anything—just not piqué.

Alright—let’s get into it!

1. Banana Republic

—> find it here.

Banana Republic is a great brand to find your basics at. The price-performance ratio is decent, the cuts timeless and the colors also easy for us to combine with other basics. This color here is agreat for summer, due to the combination possibilites with white and other brown or beige tones. Very old money style, as some people like to call it!

Read more

Now we move on to the layer most people notice first:
jackets, coats and trousers.

And precisely because these pieces are so prominent, it becomes even more important that we don’t just wear them – we style them properly.

Enjoy the read!

So let’s pick up exactly where we left off:

Level 7 – Styling Jackets Properly

Jackets are one of my absolute favorite pieces of clothing, simply because they have such a strong influence on an outfit. The reason is that this outermost layer is often the first thing people notice, which creates a certain halo effect. I’ve talked about this in a few of my videos before, but it’s worth repeating here.

What I mean by that is this: a great jacket can elevate the entire outfit around it. It can make a mediocre outfit look good – and a good outfit look exceptional. This effect becomes especially obvious with trench coats:

The gentleman underneath is simply wearing a pair of jeans and a T-shirt – nothing special. But with the trench coat on top, the entire look suddenly appears incredibly cool.

That said, we should also point out that he’s not just wearing the trench coat – he’s styling it. More on that later ;-) For now, feel free to already take a closer look and see which details stand out to you.

Precisely because jackets and coats carry so much potential, it’s a shame that we men often treat them purely as functional pieces. Of course, it’s perfectly understandable when it’s freezing cold and we simply want to protect ourselves. That’s what jackets are for, after all, and we certainly don’t want to belong to the group that prefers being stylish over staying warm. That might be acceptable when you’re 15 or 20, but after that we should probably make sure we don’t get sick because of it ;-)

What we really want to take advantage of are the days and seasons when we can throw on a jacket without necessarily having to close it. Spring, for example – which we’re heading into right now.

In principle, jackets can be divided into those with a zipper and those without one. For our styling, however, that distinction doesn’t make a huge difference. What really matters is how open or how closed the jacket is worn – and styled.

Fully / Almost Fully Closed

With jackets – regardless of the type, whether leather jackets, bombers, workwear jackets, Harringtons or denim jackets – it can create a very interesting effect when we close them almost completely. On the one hand, it obviously looks compact and functional.

But this compactness can actually become even more interesting with well-cut jackets, because it puts the design of the jacket itself more in the spotlight. At the same time, we appear more “closed off,” which can add a certain mysterious quality to the look.

Sounds a bit odd, but let’s take a look:

Jacket closed, collar partially popped, sunglasses on – something that looks incredibly good, especially with darker tones.

But here another styling element comes into play:

Popping the collar!

Not everyone likes it, of course. But in certain situations, as we’ll see today, it can definitely add a relaxed edge to the look and often fits in perfectly without looking “showy” – which is usually the main argument people make against this styling move.

Read more

1. Fabrics don’t lie

Probably the biggest factor in whether clothing looks high quality or cheap is the fabric. Interestingly, this is also one of the aspects many people underestimate or simply don’t have on their radar. We tend to focus on brand, price, and design, but overlook the decisive factor: the fabric itself often determines within seconds how a garment is perceived.

A typical example is shiny fabrics. Especially with shirts, suits, or jackets, you often see materials that reflect light very strongly. And I’m not talking about a subtle sheen. This kind of sharp reflection is something you usually only get from synthetic fibers like polyester and similar materials, which immediately reveals that the product is of lower quality—regardless of its price or brand. High-quality fabrics made from natural fibers, on the other hand, usually have a matte surface. They may still reflect light, but it disperses much more across the natural texture of the fabric and is reflected only diffusely, which automatically makes the garment look softer and more elegant.

Another important factor is the thickness of the material. Very thin fabrics often feel empty, almost “hollow,” because they tend to drape poorly, move around too much, and give the impression that the manufacturer saved money on the material. Heavier fabrics fall with more weight and tend to form soft waves when they bunch up, whereas thinner fabrics crease much more easily. A coat, for example, can have a fantastic design—but if the fabric is too thin, it will almost automatically look cheap.

Can you see how, even in the product presentation, the coat looks oddly sharp and wavy? That’s because a low-quality, thin fabric is being used, where every little unevenness shows through.

Here you can see the opposite. To be fair, darker colors do hide these kinds of flaws and wrinkles much better. That’s something you can absolutely use to your advantage if you do want to save money at some point—whatever the reason may be. If that’s the case, go for darker colors. They’re simply more forgiving.

Still, you can clearly see that far fewer wrinkles appear even when the coat is just standing naturally. And when they do appear—as we can see on the back—they form thicker, softer waves instead of those sharp, crumpled creases.

But let’s move on.

What all high-quality fabrics tend to have in common is a beautiful texture. Think of materials like tweed, flannel, corduroy, moleskin, or heavier cotton fabrics. These materials have visible depth. They feel substantial and therefore more alive. That, combined with a certain thickness or softness of the fabric, is what makes a garment look interesting and high quality.

The fabric isn’t just a technical characteristic of a garment. It’s often the very first clue as to whether we’re looking at a well-made piece or a rather weak product. And that’s something you don’t only notice in person — sometimes you can already spot it while shopping online. ;-)

Read more

Enjoy reading!

Barbour Spey

—> find it here.

We love our coats and trench coats – especially now that they’re finally getting longer and actually going past the knee. But when it comes to transitional jackets, I’m more than happy to keep things short! That way, we create a nice contrast between our cold-season coats and our lighter jackets – and we can also play with proportions. Shorter jackets automatically make us look a bit taller!

Poszetka no longer carries this jacket, but you can still find it via the link above.

Flight Jacket

—> find it here.

Grand Le Mar is a brand we should’ve had on our radar for quite some time now. Alongside Suitsupply and Pini Parma, they’re another strong address for cool, classic menswear pieces at – most of the time – a very fair price-to-quality ratio.

I really like this flight jacket. It’s available in beige, brown, and black. And not just because of the design, but also because of the fabric – moleskin. It feels like a lighter, softer version of suede, but technically it isn’t suede at all. It feels the way you’d imagine “mole fur” to feel. That’s exactly where the name “moleskin” comes from.

Which one would I go for? Brown or black!

Wool Drivers Jacket

—> find it here.

As mentioned in one of my last videos were I reviewed the brand- I’m a fan of Todd Snyder! And this jacket is the best example for it. Beautiful piece, the colors is great for our basic wardrobe (easy to style with brown tones) and the style just as the fit are timeless.
Quite expensive, but worth it in my opinion!

Puffer Vest in Olive

—> find it here.

I really like this vest as well! Great color, beautiful quilting, and the price ($265) is okay. In my opinion, it’s a great piece to wear under a coat or something similar, adding a bit of visual depth to the outfit through the pattern.

Read more

Let’s get started!

Intro

Do you know that feeling when you buy a fitness book or something about a specific sport, someone explains how to perform an exercise — and you understand absolutely nothing? That’s how it always felt for me, and I was accordingly frustrated. That’s definitely not what today is going to be like. Which is why we’re putting the main focus on visuals. Because they’re not just explanations — they’re proof of how something is worn and why it looks good.

This article was originally supposed to become a YouTube video because I see huge potential in this topic. Simply because no one talks about it.
But since you should always have the privilege of being the first when it comes to any kind of my content and announcements, I’m breaking this down for you first 🙂

1. The First Layer: The Shirt on Its Own

It already starts with how differently we can wear a shirt! The shirt is probably the most versatile piece in our core wardrobe because it can be styled in so many different directions.

It never looked good, doesn’t look good, and never will look good to wear a shirt, button it all the way up, and leave the sleeves exactly as they are.
Start seeing buttons and sleeves as styling tools. Just because there are buttons doesn’t mean every single one has to be fastened. And just because there are sleeves doesn’t mean they always have to hang down properly and unchanged.

Depending on the occasion — and on the fabric of the shirt we choose — completely different options open up. Let’s take a look at them.

1.1 Buttons – How Far Open?

One button

If we only open the top button, we appear the most conservative. I understand if some of you want to keep it more conservative in a professional setting and therefore don’t want to open more than one button.

Two buttons

But should we apply that same approach to our free time? In my opinion: absolutely not. It makes you look noticeably more closed off — almost a little uptight. In your free time, you want to use the styling qualities of the shirt to your advantage and get rid of that uniform feel. My rule: if you want to appear relaxed, open, and effortless, you should open the second button.

Just look how much more relaxed the outfit feels simply because one more button is undone.

At least in the example with the blazer.

If we’re wearing just the shirt on its own, the second button should definitely be open here as well. But now we add another option: rolling up the sleeves.

He’s not just opening a button here — he’s also casually rolling up the sleeves. Because of that — and because he leaves one button open at the bottom — the look feels incredibly relaxed, even though he’s “just” wearing a shirt.
But he’s styling it instead of simply wearing it 😉

Three buttons

Can you open another button? Yes, absolutely. But this is where a bit of finesse comes into play, because otherwise it can quickly look forced or sloppy.

Here are a few examples:

Here, he “gets away with” opening the third button because the conservative shawl collar cardigan balances it out. That’s why the look feels cool and classic, but at the same time relaxed — he’s playing with contrasts. Conservative cardigan vs. widely unbuttoned shirt.

The Italians are especially known for this kind of balancing act, and that’s exactly what makes their outfits look so good.

Read more

Sounds like a crazy statement. But anyone who reads today’s article will understand what I mean. And maybe even thank me for opening their eyes. Because ultimately, this will help you save money so you can invest it in the right pieces at the right time.

Enjoy the read!

1. Quality is the argument of comfort

When we hear the word “quality” in connection with clothing, our immediate reaction is: “Yes, absolutely – that’s right and important!” No one, really NO ONE argues against the idea of investing more in quality.

“I’d rather buy it properly once” is one of those sentences that has been universally accepted, seemingly approved decades ago and passed along as the ultimate truth—without question.

And it makes sense. It feels responsible. It feels grown-up.

And I’m partly “to blame” for that as well, as someone who constantly talks about quality and encourages you to think twice before buying anything.

The only issue is this: quality is not automatically the solution to everything—especially not in the beginning. A high-quality mistake is still a mistake. An expensive jacket with the wrong silhouette won’t move you forward stylistically. Quality may feel like progress, but please remember: quality does not replace direction.

And that’s exactly what we’re talking about today.

When does quality make sense—and when doesn’t it?

2. Quality is an amplifier, not a replacement (Core thesis)

“Quality isn’t a starting point. It’s an amplifier.”

What do I mean by that? To explain it, I want to use a simple example from music.

Think of quality like a speaker. If a clear song is playing, it sounds better—fuller, cleaner, more precise—when you turn up the volume. But if nothing is playing, or the signal is messy, all the speaker does is amplify the noise.

And that’s exactly how it works with personal style. If you know

• who you are,

• how you want to come across,

• which silhouettes and colors actually carry your signature …

THEN quality helps you make your presence stronger. But if you don’t have that clarity yet, that “quality” simply goes nowhere. At best, it just amplifies your indecision—because now you’re wearing more expensive clothes that don’t even suit you or fit you properly.

And I’m sure some of you are thinking right now: “Okay, but I do know what suits me—so what does that mean for me?”
Great question.

Because we’re all at different stages of our style journey. Which means the question of quality—and which pieces it matters for, and where it’s still completely unnecessary—will look different for each person.

So let’s break it down and look at how to approach this in the smartest way, depending on which phase you’re in.

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Enjoy the read!

1. Do you recognize yourself in this?

In the course of our style development, there are ups and downs, like in everything else. Sometimes you’re very happy and proud of your progress, and then there are phases where you look at individual pieces or entire outfits and think, something isn’t quite right here.

But just as often, a different state sets in. You stand in front of the mirror in the morning and are—thankfully—past that phase of discomfort, doubt, and frustration. You now know what you can wear, what suits you, and how things should fit. The basics come naturally to you.

And at the same time, something else happens. Alongside the absence of discomfort, there’s no real sense of excitement anymore either. Dressing better than before has become normal. The outfits are functional, unobtrusive—but ultimately just “okay.”

Almost everyone reaches this point at some stage, so there’s absolutely no reason to feel bad about it—or to think, “Maybe fashion just isn’t for me.” No. The good thing is that you’ve already developed far enough to even reach this stage in the first place.

And how we move past this purely functional phase and take the next steps—that’s exactly what we’ll talk about today.

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And that’s exactly what we’ll work through together in today’s Stilakademie article.

Enjoy reading!

1. Perception Before Clothing

When we think about creating an outfit, we almost automatically think in individual pieces. This could work with that, that with something else … and so on. We think in shoes, tops, fabrics, brands, and details. Why? Because that’s simply how construction works.
But this also creates a problem: we start to believe that the person looking at us perceives our outfit in the same way. That is not the case.

We think: “My leather jacket is really strong. The trousers are ‘okay’, but that doesn’t matter. The jacket is the eyecatcher.”

In reality, perception works differently. People don’t see an outfit in a technical sense. They first see an effect. They see an overall image, a mood, a direction. This happens automatically—without deeper analysis and without a conscious decision. Only afterwards—if at all—does the eye move on. This is where the fundamental misunderstanding begins.
Many try to improve their appearance through individual pieces, even though the actual impact has already been decided earlier, on the overall level. And this is not because details are unimportant, but because they simply come too late to be perceived.

An example.
I quickly went on Pinterest and scrolled through outfits. The first thing that caught my eye, I copied in here:

My first thought was: “Cool, relaxed, harmonious, stylish.” This impression formed in milliseconds. Why? We’ll take a closer look at that in a moment, but for now this much upfront: because we first perceive overall colours (harmony) and cuts (proportions).

It’s similar to a first impression. The subconscious makes a decision immediately, based on certain parameters, and presents it to the conscious mind—without any active, rational evaluation on our part. That comes only in the second step.

How these steps actually unfold is what we’ll look at next:

2. The Core Principle – Perception Is Hierarchical

The most important core principle upfront:

“Perception always follows a hierarchy.”

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Enjoy!

1. Massimo Dutti

—> YouTube Video

—> Loom Video

2. Zara

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Sometimes it’s about color combinations, sometimes about individual pieces, sometimes about personalities, or simply outfits that feel perfectly put together. I’ll show you the looks, details, and people that really stood out to me at this year’s Pitti Uomo — and, most importantly, what we can take from them for our own personal style.

Let’s get started!

Before we begin: 50% off at Sir of Sweden! Code: ONME

Sir of Sweden (www.sir.se) has opened the doors to their End of Season Sale today exclusively for you, my community — and we’re getting 50% off before anyone else!

I was able to choose a code for you and went with ONME
Simply enter it at the end of checkout to receive a very generous discount.

Both Sir of Sweden and I would like to sincerely thank you for your support at this point. As a small gesture of appreciation, you’re getting early access ahead of everyone else :-)

That way, we’re starting 2026 fresh, well dressed, and at the same time laying a great foundation for our upcoming collaboration “Sir of Sweden x Frederic’s”, where we’ll be launching a joint capsule wardrobe in mid-March.

The theme is “Business / Business Casual” and it will provide everything you need for a solid business wardrobe as well as smart-casual outfits. Two suits, two chinos, shirts, club blazers, and a trench coat.

More on that very soon!

What can you find in the sale?

This coat and suit, for example!

This suit and the shirt are also from Sir. The same goes for the coat — although that one is currently sold out. We’ll be bringing it back in exactly the same form toward the end of the year, as the demand from you and the requests for a restock have been overwhelming :-)

Enjoy the sale!
Enter the code AUFMICH at the end of checkout to receive the community discount.

—> To the Sir of Sweden website

Number 1 | Fabrics and Patterns

What an outfit! It’s very clear that the style — beard, tattoos, and accessories — won’t appeal to every single one of you. And that’s perfectly fine.

What makes this outfit work so well lies in the details — or let’s call it the “fine print.” First and foremost, it’s the mix of fabrics and patterns that gives it its strength. We’re looking at a dark green corduroy suit, which in itself is something very conservative — just like the Fair Isle sweater.

Fair Isle is one of those things that can very quickly feel overly conservative or simply “boring” when worn by the wrong person or when styled without any real thought. The same applies, for example, to sweater vests. Objectively and without context, a rather dreadful garment and a relic of the 1970s and 1980s.

That brings us directly to the second key point here: context. And by context, we mean the person wearing the clothes — their appearance in terms of hair, beard, and overall persona, but also the way the individual pieces are combined.

We’re dealing with a very striking character here, who uses tattoos and accessories like scarves and rings to give the outfit a certain edge. This is how you make conservative garments feel completely different. And that’s exactly the takeaway from this look.

It’s also, once again, a great example of how brilliantly denim shirts can be integrated color-wise. Denim and green simply work beautifully together. Here, the denim shirt also helps to take away some of the conservative feel of the Fair Isle sweater.

Overall, the color composition is very strong. Dark green in the suit and beanie works perfectly with the warm beige tone of the sweater and its red, yellow, and green accents. Very harmonious — nothing feels out of place or distracting.

These are exactly the kinds of outfits we can learn from. We’re allowed to mix styles. And that doesn’t have to come solely from combining different types of clothing — pairing a strong, punk-inspired or rock-inspired appearance with elements of classic menswear can create a fantastic contrast.

Chapeau!

Number 2 | Style beats rules — every single time

“The better you understand your own style and know how to execute it, the less you need to rely on classic style rules.”

And this outfit is the perfect example of that statement. If we were to stick strictly to traditional style guidelines, there would be several breaks and so-called no-gos happening here.

We’re looking at a mix of Western elements — a shearling coat and a cowboy hat — combined with classic menswear pieces like a flannel suit and a paisley scarf. Add to that the suit’s lapels being worn prominently over the coat’s lapels, plus a turtleneck layered underneath the shirt.

“Wrong style mix. Incorrect layering. You don’t pop your collars.”
At least, that’s the theory.

But theory ends where personal style begins.

Rules don’t apply as long as it looks good. And that’s exactly the lesson here: it looks phenomenal, even though it’s technically so wrong.

To really pull off a look like this, though, you need a very strong understanding of how to combine colors, how to let different style worlds blend into one another, and how to connect everything with your own persona so that the outfit speaks its own language.

This outfit shows me — and shows you — that there is a point where you can stylistically run a red light and, instead of getting a ticket, receive applause.

That is the highest level of style. But it’s also not something we all need to aim for.

Personally, this would be too much for me. Too extroverted, and not the goal of my wardrobe or my style. I’m simply far too comfortable with clean, minimal, and simple looks.

But we absolutely need these types of people and these kinds of outfits to show us what’s possible. If you only ever know your own ZIP code, you’ll never understand how big the world really is.

And that’s exactly what this look represents to me.

Very well done.

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In my experience, this is an absolute game changer. It helps you combine outfits better, shop more intentionally, and even travel completely stress free and well prepared.

The nice thing is that it’s really not complicated at all. You just need to understand the principles behind it, and then you can apply them to everything going forward.

Let’s get started.

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In this piece, I’m taking you along in those observations. No big concept, no master plan — just an honest look at my current daily rotation and the small decisions that have shaped my style over the past few months. Maybe you’ll recognize yourself in some of it, or maybe one thought will linger a little longer than expected.

Enjoy reading!

Context

Why am I writing todays article?
From my point of view, it’s one thing to pass on the basics and help people build a solid wardrobe. That foundation is essential — without it, nothing really works. At the same time, I strongly believe that sometimes you also need perspective. An insight into how things look for others. And especially with someone who has been deeply involved in this topic for over a decade, I find it interesting to see whether — and how — things still change on that level. Or even improve.

What’s important to me is that you understand this: you can build a very good foundation relatively quickly and eliminate most of the common worries around getting dressed. But the enjoyment never really goes away. You’re constantly influenced by external factors, develop new ideas, and over time you keep refining your understanding of aesthetics.

That’s why I want to take you along today and show how things have evolved for me recently.

One crucial turning point was the launch of my YouTube channel. For my videos, I suddenly had to stand in front of a running camera on a regular basis, which gave me the opportunity to see myself and my outfits from different angles — and, most importantly, in motion. That’s a completely different experience compared to looking at a few well-posed photos.

What I noticed was that certain proportions suddenly didn’t appeal to me anymore, even though everything felt fine when I was wearing it. I had to admit to myself that there was a clear gap between how I perceived things and how they actually looked — or how I wanted them to look.

When I looked down at myself, I liked the width of my trousers. Not too tight, rather slim — to me, it felt just right. But once I saw myself on video, it became obvious that the trousers were objectively still too narrow. I was missing volume to properly balance the proportions.

Especially when you wear fuller shapes on top — which almost happens automatically in winter due to layering — you need a corresponding counterbalance in your trousers and footwear.

That realization was one of the first things that pushed me to change something fundamental.

1. Wider Jeans / Tailored Trousers

I’ve added noticeably wider trousers to my wardrobe. Some of you might look at them and think, that doesn’t even seem that wide. Trust me — compared to what I used to wear, these are already pretty damn roomy.

This photo was taken a few days ago when I styled my new dinner jacket from Mercury in a kind of “Ralph tux” way. Ralph Lauren was one of the first to pair formal eveningwear — like a tuxedo jacket — with jeans. It’s an odd clash at first glance, but one that I find genuinely interesting.

Here you can see the jeans on their own, photographed before they went to the tailor.

I bought these jeans in both this light blue shade and in dark grey. Next up will be a pair in raw denim — and possibly black as well.

How difficult was the adjustment?

This point is especially important to me, because through my conversations with our Discord manager Udo, I know that many new members join the Discord with exactly this issue. Trousers that are too tight are one of the most common problems we see there.

From my perspective, this is one of the most important — and at the same time fastest — changes you can make to your style. It’s not easy, because you have to consciously go against old habits and allow something new. That’s precisely why I’m sharing this experience here. So you know that not too long ago, I was struggling with this myself — and that I’m now all the happier I took that step.

The moment I truly realized the change was working was incredibly mundane. My wife casually took a photo of me, I looked at it, and for the first time I could honestly say that the trousers fit well. At that point, it became clear to me that in the end, it’s mostly a matter of getting used to it.

Stick with it — it’s worth it!

Where to find good jeans?

• Double RL

• Buck Mason

• GANT

• Edwin

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Very few people ever look at the fabric composition on the label of their clothes.
And even among those who do, most don’t really know what those materials actually mean.

So let’s put an end to that.

To give you a clear understanding of the pros and cons of each material, I’ve gathered the most important fabrics for you in one place. From now on, you’ll know exactly what’s ending up in your wardrobe when you buy something – and which materials actually make sense for which purpose.

To keep things simple, we’ll first divide everything into three main categories and then go through the most important fabrics you’ll commonly find in your clothing.

Enjoy reading!

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